Product Description
by David Tuffley (Author)
Surfing has grown from a pastime enjoyed in old Polynesia to a global pursuit with a legion of devoted practitioners. For many, surfing is a state-of-mind, a life-style that has become a consuming passion. For others, it is a highly enjoyable weekend pastime. This concise collection of surfing terms gives the outsider or beginner a window into the culture and language of surfing. Seasoned surfers already know these terms.Riding waves has been part of Polynesian culture in the Western Pacific for centuries. It is not known exactly where and when it started, much less by whom. It may have been as simple as seeing dolphins surfing the breakers, something they do instinctively and appear to enjoy.We do know that in 1767, the English navigator and explorer Samuel Wallis saw men surfing when he visited Tahiti. A few years later in 1778, another Englishman, James Cook saw the locals surfing the waves in Hawaii. Surfing was a good idea whose time had come; with more people visiting from Europe and America, the idea was sure to spread to the rest of the world eventually.And spread it did; in 1907, Henry Huntington visited Hawaii on holiday and saw an opportunity to market his property interests in Redondo Beach California. Huntington hired a young Hawaiian, George Freeth (father was Irish) to come to Redondo and show everyone just how much fun it could be to ride the waves. The strategy worked spectacularly. Today, Huntington Beach, also known as HB and Surf City is an important center of Californian surfing culture.In the Summer of 1914/15, another Hawaiian, Duke Kahanamoku came to Australia on a similar mission as Freeth. After putting on a series of successful display events at Freshwater Beach in Sydney, the Duke made his way north to the Gold Coast, surfing at Snapper Rocks, what is now part of the so-called Superbank, one of the longest point breaks in the world.
Author Biography
David Tuffley is a local from Australia's Gold Coast/Brisbane for 60 years at time of writing. Surf culture is some of David's earliest memories, and his happiest. He still remembers having his first Neptune's Cocktail and Sand Facial while learning how to surf. He gets back to the beach every chance he gets. Swimming in the ocean and surfing the waves is one of life's great pleasures.
